I am worried about creating a water damn of some sort. Epoxy grout is bulletproof! Sorry, I know it sucks. Watch out for the springs and plastic covers. We’ve written several articles about basement insulation and a cost effective approach to basement insulation using foam board and fiberglass insulation.Since writing those articles we’ve received quite a few questions about when to use a basement vapor barrier and when not to. It’s simply cylindrical foam … Question: can we put silicone caulk over these areas to cover pink without causing further issues? Roger, There are different window designs, so the steps needed to remove yours may vary. It will not stay if the grout has no grout line to hold onto – if it is simply attempting to grab onto the face of the tiles at a 90 degree angle. I have been trying to decide what do do with the gap between the hardibacker (red guard applied) and the mud shower pan. Raise the sash near the top of the window. Yes, the mesh tape with AD is fine. It’s actually likely Serratia marcescens, which is a bacteria. I have two questions 1) I had to cut out the durock around the flange clips in order to lay flat just above the flange. I hope you find a good solution. Notify me of follow-up comments by email. If you're installing from the inside, remove the interior stops and leave the exterior stops in place. It’s not a gasket, it’s just so you don’t have to stuff so much caulk in there, it just takes up space. Would we risk our tile cracking over time? If you can't remove them, they'll break off when the springs are detached. I have no knowledge regarding how your shower base was installed. Precautions must still be taken but the Epoxy is strong enough to withstand normal structural movement. That would be my suggestion at present, see if that solves the issue. Either that or I can visit some tile/granite stores for a remnant. My favorite regular grout is currently laticrete’s permacolor select. Apply latex caulk along the interior trim to complete the installation. The thought of chiseling out old grout to repair cracked grout does not excite me. Latasil will work better, it’s silicone. See How to Caulk to learn to lay a bead of caulk. Nice questions Bill, sorry if I got to this after the thin-set dried!! There must be a grout line at the changes of plane. Then afterward, caulking over the corner. – if you ask a hundred different professionals you will more than likely receive fifty of each answer. In our first home I chose a solid onyx base-loved it, fantastically solid. Humidity, weather, even the structure’s foundation all affect how much it moves. Good Luck! Think of rubbing sand across glass. 3)there is sanded caulk and non sanded caulk – you can purchase to match your grout color. Why do they give different answers? From the outside, apply spray foam insulation recommended for windows into the gaps around the window. Would the wall that is having a leak be an interior wall? If you can visit a Home Depot or Lowe’s store ask if they have someone who works in flooring that personally has done tile installing. Any plane that changes direction is a change of plane. Ensure they're placed correctly for proper leveling and secure them with screws and flashing tape to prevent any movement. Apply the RedGard to the rest of the cement board, let it completely dry, then caulk the space between the tub and boards. There are several advantages to using caulk in corners and any other area where there may be a plane change or where tile meets another material such as your bathtub or sink. We suspect that the grout is cracking due to movement (the shower is installed in a bathroom bump out and over a crawl space, and against two exterior walls—though they were reframed and well insulated during the remodel). The grout at the change of plane was cracking, so I decided to remove it and replace with silicone caulk. Score along the edge of the storm window frame with a utility knife and then remove the screws and use a pry bar or putty knife to remove the frame. I’m a bit meticulous and a perfectionist, not sure that really makes much difference helping solve your issue tho. There are a couple of things that must be taken into consideration before choosing this method. If it does not have a specific method to get into the drain it will build up behind that wall tile (unless the shower is not used often enough, in which case it will dry out through the grout lines, similar to your initial issue) or it will find another route out of the wall. I’m backwards like that. Either works, but silicone works better. Under will be thinset/mesh tape (might fabric these also). I would put one about an inch from that corner (on either wall) and probably another on the opposite side of the shower by the other corner. Poly foam caulk saver acts as a filler in large gaps before applying caulk. First, thus far we have seen no evidence in the crawl space that water is leaking into the framing. Our installer did not seal where tub meets tile/grout. Use a shop vacuum if needed to remove any dust and debris. Push the backer rod down into the joint with your hand. Just scrape out whatever combination of grout and silicone they have in there all the way back to behind the tile, ideally all the way to the substrate. What about wall to wall (perpendicular to each other)? You want to use silicone. I now do understand that we are speaking about two types of weep holes, those that are part of the drain and those that are required when tile meets a solid surface such as a floor base or a tub, vs. a tile floor. What it does do is allow two different planes to expand and contract in different directions without compromising the joint. However, this installer says he has used this same type of caulk (not silicone) for many years and he has never had an issue. The backer-rod needs to be slightly thicker than the expansion joint, example- a 3/4 inch joint needs 1 inch foam backer-rod. Will I be OK if I fill with thinset/mesh tape then run a strip of fabric/aquadefense down to the flange? The nuclear option is to remove the bottom row of tile, figure out what the hell is preventing the water from reaching the floor, remove it and rebuild it correctly. If necessary, use shims to make the sill level. Follow these detailed instructions on how to install replacement windows. Avoid batt insulation, which can absorb water. When everything is right, cut any shims that are still sticking out. Use the smallest height and width measurements when ordering your windows. Insulates and cushions. The discoloration is more noticeable on the very bottom row of tile l, where the tile meets the top of the tub & The bottom corner, but also, appearing along the very bottom row of tile where it meets the tub… The grout is a very light gray & the discoloration appears to be a reddish orange in color.. Don't proceed until you have your new windows and have measured them all to make sure they'll fit. The orange discoloration is mold. 2) Regarding the change of plans, can I still leave a gap of 1/8 inch at the corner tiles and fill with 100% white silicone (grout will be white) or do you recommend a butt joint? Can I silicone the next day. if you are unfortunate to have a base issue and have to replace it. If you can't pry the stops off cleanly, they're probably embedded within the frame and need to be cut using an oscillating saw. If not, I would start making alot of calls asking around for a qualified plumber or construction/tile installer for a second opinion. If your window has weights, cut the cords and let the weight fall inside the frame. Measure the width at the top, middle and bottom. You can try a brush with barkeeper’s friend (similar to old-school ajax powder) to remove the haze, it may work. Given the above parameters I believe caulk to always be the best choice. All the cool kids are doin’ it. The water WILL get behind the tile. There is a tool for this and I believe you can buy them at Home Depot. Tiles start at the base of the bathtub & go up to the ceiling. It sounds to me like that particular corner (and perhaps the entire floor perimeter) has silicone or something trapping the water above the floor. The idea of removing the grout at all joints to replace with silicone caulk seems extreme (though I do realize that we should be prepared to experience grout cracking in other parts of the shower over time). Caulk is flexible. Get all of Hollywood.com's best Celebrities lists, news, and more. The laticrete supplier in my area said the caulk is what they sell. Thoughts on which option is better? Don't overfill the gaps. Apologies for the long query, but I wanted to provide you with as much info as possible. As well my husband did a fair amount of YouTube video searches. ... You can fill larger gaps with backer rod weatherstripping to make sure your house window replacement is airtight and waterproof. Some plumbers tell me caulk isn’t needed. Refer to the manufacturer instructions and see Do-It-Yourself Foam Insulation for tips. It’ll leave scratches. Or should I just caulk? After, cleaning the shower I noticed a Slight discoloration on a few areas on the grout. Also there is grout sealer you can add when mixing grout, epoxy for grouting and you can buy premixed grout. Thank you, Ranada. I did speak with the original installer, who strongly asserts that the waterproofing was carefully done, stating that he extended the rubber liner base 8″ up the wall, and applied a liquid waterproofer over the durarock. Most shower installations are over a wood structure of some sort. That’s why you waterproof the substrate behind the tile. Remove the screws holding the springs in place. I am using the Aquadefense to waterproof the entire shower. So again, my husband repeated his repair process. Professional Tile Installation Contractor Fort Collins and all of Northern Colorado. The only thing you’re trying to do is give the water a specific place to exit the wall. We realize we will probably have to remove, clean & recaulk every year. The springs might have plastic covers. Would like some sort of shelf. If your window has sash springs, carefully remove them. Get help moving and supporting them during installation. Previous post: How Large Should Grout Lines Be? He grouted all changes in plane except for using a matching siliconized sanded acrylic caulk around the shower floor perimeter and in the niches. Altho if it’s at the shower base level that may not be an option. Yes it will bond, yes it will be okay. I was planning on grouting the corners, so the tiles are not butted together. Also do I caulk/silicone changes of plane before grouting or vice versa? Unlike grout you are able to use caulk in a corner where tiles are butted against each other. I would not silicone over it until you get rid of it, that’ll just cause it to flourish. As far as the ‘dam’, you’re correct, that’s why you need weep holes. Grout packed in there will do this (it will slow it tremendously, at least, not necessarily seal it off), but caulk or silicone FILLING those gaps will also do that. Interestingly, this new guy did not explain that water getting behind the tile is normal–which would have been nice to have understood when speaking with him. Creating weep holes in your existing area creates a combination system even though you have a tiled floor. If possible, cut and remove them. Really. ... Lowe’s. Fill any holes with wood filler and make sure you have solid wood where you'll screw the new window into the frame for stability. Apply a 3/8-inch bead of silicone caulk at the interior head (the top of the frame), the stops and the sill. Use a sharp utility knife to cut the sill adapter to the appropriate width. It’ll be fun. Thanks again. Thanks again for your help. Is that ok? Regular acrylic caulk will lose it’s elasticity much faster than silicone will, which means it needs to be replaced sooner. Whether you have drywall, backerboard, or a membrane, if you go far enough behind the tile, you’ll find wood. Sometimes it's best to remove the sashes from the inside, but for this project, it'll be easier to remove the existing windows from the outside. Always leave a joint for silicone. Any thoughts or suggestions you have will be much appreciated! You can make any necessary adjustments with shims. I have used nearly everything for shelves. First: Don’t panic. You mentioned caulking on plane changes and cited wall to floor and wall to tub edge as examples. It’s just an open space where water can run out of the wall onto the floor, then down the drain. You should have a small gap around the frame. We live in CA (earthquakes)… is epoxying change in planes, corners, etc. The instructions for this caulk specifically state it is for use in “predominantly dry areas”– and so I am mystified why it would be considered appropriate for a shower vs. using a matching silicone caulk. It should fit the length of the sill and extend up the vertical leg of the stool (the bottom ledge of the interior side of the window). I would think the latasil would be the better option but would have to order online. Hi Roger, I plan on using epoxy grout in my shower and bathroom and I’m hoping to not have to use caulk. I don’t care what they say, construction always has wood somewhere that can move. Basement Vapor Barrier and Insulation. Either works, but silicone works better. The better solution, and the one I recommend, is to remove ALL the grout in every change of plane then silicone them all leaving weep holes.The location of at least one of those should be close to that corner. I just cleaned my shower and I do not have any soaps or shampoos that are that color… I am sick to my stomach about this, as we recently had it done in June of this year.. Do you have any suggestions that I may be able to pass along to the contractor to correct this if an issue?? Check the sill for level and make sure there's no bowing. A better grade of unsanded is available at Lowe’s called Mapei [something] FA. Check for plumb (straight up and down), level and square, and ensure the window operates properly. Thanks for the above comment. Avoid batt insulation, which can absorb water. Normally in a shower will a tiled floor as well, the water will run down the wall over the waterproofing, onto the floor, again-over the waterproofing, then into the weep holes in the drain. Because the water in the wall NEEDS to have a path to the drain. Siliconing over the grout will only exacerbate the situation as it seals the grout and does not allow it to dry out through the grout lines – it traps more moisture. I’ve just finished tiling the bathtub walls and two questions if possible . They didn’t mention what it was. I am currently using Laticrete permacolor select as my goto grout – it’s good stuff too. ... backer rod? If there is any movement the caulk is flexible enough to move with it and remain in place. Everything I’m about to tell you is fixable easily. I did not understand that water is meant to run behind the tile wall and under the tile floor to the drain, but this makes perfect sense since grout is porous (I did learn that sealing grout is not a waterproofing step). If this barrier is around the entire perimeter, it may still just be showing up at that corner, if that corner happens to be the lowest point of the perimeter. Set the window aside. Installer did not use silicone caulk at the change of planes–apparently grout vs. caulk at the corners is a subject of some debate (yes, I have been doing some internet reading) — but it appears the industry standard, and of course your valued opinion, would have been to use caulk. My guess would be that he installed a bead of silicone at the bottom of the wall for some ridiculous reason. Knowing The Difference Between Mortar & Concrete – Which Do You Need For Your Project? Use a piece of scrap wood to protect the sill adapter while you tap it in place with a hammer. My question: Can the caulk (GE Silicone II) be applied over this haze/will it adhere and be an ok seal? What they put in there was backer rod. I’m going with Laticrete 1600 Unsanded with the 1776 Enhancer and using Latisil in the corners/change of plan. The first reason I consider to simply be regular maintenance and the latter is less of a problem since most major grout manufacturers sell matching caulk. Caulk and silicone allow for this movement – grout does not. Finding the problem to fix-i hope you’re guy has returned your call. Our local stores do not honor online pricing. ... where exactly would the limitation be for the grout and where would it be smarter to apply a matching color LATASIL™ caulk line with the (polyethylene or is it polyurethane) backer rod? Water running out of there is a fair indication that it is at least waterproofed behind that area. Some tell me caulk is needed. Your walls and the framing of your shower must be absolutely rock solid. Drill two weep holes at the bottom of the adapter and then lock it onto the window. Be sure to work it into the corner of the stool. I can add that in that corner, there is very little gap between the floor and wall tile, and a because a sanded grout was used instead of unsanded, I am not sure if that is contributing to the problem and perhaps the tile can’t hold on to the grout and this is why the grout failed so quickly after the install. He discussed issues before and during our own install and was happy to take all our questions. Tile is 4×12 with 1/16″ joint. Do you grout everything, including the corners, then go back and scrap out the grout in the corners, then apply silicone? i.e. You must decide you are going to use grout at the changes of plane. The space between the tiles at the change of plane must be large enough (for sanded grout) or small enough (for non-sanded grout) to be able to support the grout. Станом на 19:00 22 вересня за інформацією Хмельницької ОДА в Хмельницькій області зареєстровано 5242 лабораторно підтверджених випадки covid-19. There HAS to be something there preventing that. It is likely Serratia marcescens, which is a type of water-borne bacteria. That should do it, if it’s not sufficient the shower will let you know by doing the same thing wherever you need another one. I bought you liquid waterproofing ebook and it was a great help. Provided your waterproofing BEHIND the tile is properly tied into the tub so you have a fully waterproof transition from the wall down into the tub you don’t need to have anything there. The easiest solution is to dig out a weep hole in the grout at the bottom of that corner. Materials needed for caulking expansion joints are foam backer-rod and non-sagging polyurethane caulk. If so then you don’t need to do anything with it – gravity makes everything work correctly. I’m slowly plugging away on installing the tile and have decided to add a niche. You gotta like my page. This means the backer rod should be this far below the concrete pad surface. The haze is in the pores of the marble (which is why it’s difficult to remove). First: Water will ALWAYS get behind tile – always. I do mean absolutely. The only time I will use grout for a plane change is when I am using epoxy grout. Attach new pieces with screws and wood glue. The first time my husband (as advised by the contractor, who does not live locally) dug out the wet grout (Mapei, sanded), allowed the space to dry for several days, replaced the grout and let it cure for two days, then applied sealer and allowed it to dry for two more days. You will need to remove the old grout. Hi Roger, I’m installing my first tile shower over an acrylic shower pan (Sterling) using 4×12 white tile. So although extra care must be taken to properly use grout at your plane changes, the advantages for some people are worth the extra time. Silicone is only aesthetic in that particular application. If you're installing from the outside, as with this project, remove the exterior stops but leave the interior stops in place. In your case water is unable to run from the wall to the floor – something is stopping it at the bottom of the wall. Stephanie, You build and waterproof it in a method that always ends up at the drain in some manner. Waterproofing a shower is all about water management. It is just best to use silicone at all changes of plane for your project. The thresholds work well, you can ‘polish’ the edge of the threshold by coating it with an enhancing sealer, or sanding it (orbital or vibrating sander) with progressive grits up to about 2000 or so, the shine will match the finished surface. More concerning is that I observed a small amount of water seeping out from the corner 24 hours after the shower was last used (and after I had dried the floor)—so this indicates that water was definitely getting behind the tile. The tile will drop down to within 1/8 inch of the pan. Placing caulk over grout in the corners will just lead to cracked grout in the corners that can not fall out – but it’ll still be cracked. Seal the edges of the trim with latex caulk, making sure to avoid covering the weep holes. 2. C oncrete and mortar are both used in building projects but there are some differences in their composition and therefore their strength which means they should not be interchanged and one should not be … Here’s how to fix it: Locations of weep holes in showers, Click here to get an instruction manual for your waterproofing installation. It’s normal. (That’s the word on the street…), Help with all your tile needs (and extreme jackassery!). Others might require removing screws that hold them in place. The big advantages of using grout here is that it will match all the grout lines and it will never have to be replaced. Fill any noticeable nail holes with wood putty and paint the trim as needed. Prices and availability of products and services are subject to change without notice. This article is part of our series on How to Install Hardwood Floors. If your window frame has weight chambers, fill them with insulation before installing the new window. It’s simply cylindrical foam used to fill empty space before caulking. Product costs, availability and item numbers may vary online or by market. Thank you. You can add silicone caulk with Microban (DAP is my favorite brand right now) to the space between the cement board and pipes.Then add RedGard. You can fill larger gaps with backer rod weatherstripping to make sure your house window replacement is airtight and waterproof. Tiles are white 4×12 with 1/16″ grout joint. 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